*I take zero credit for the photo in this article. All images are linked back to their original site.*
If we were playing Taboo and the word was fashion, there are many words I’d buzz for. Even in a more progressive industry, there are words and phrases we can’t seem to shake. Every morning we all get dressed. Doesn’t that mean we all take part in the fashion industry in some way or another? Every day? Some people think they “don’t do fashion.” “It’s not made for them.” They just wear clothes for protection. But, I believe in someway or another, we all want control over our looks, our own image. The way fashion is always changing - it’s crazy how these concepts, these words, just don’t. It’s time to consider: not all bad words have four letters.
Although, I am going to contradict myself here and kick it off with a four letter word: plus. Plus size, extended sizes, it’s what retailers could think of as the best way to call out that they have clothes for everyone. The problem is they brag about it too. That’s like promoting you’re not racist! Every ad features a “real” plus-sized model, which is great, we’ve been asking to see real people in fashion marketing for longer than I’ve even been alive but it still feels forced. Plus sizes are just sizes. They’re not extended, it's just what people wear today. As our jobs become more sedentary and our food supply becomes more abundant, the size of people has naturally increased. 10 years ago the movement to add a women’s plus section to all traditional retail shops was in full swing because the average American woman wore a size 14. In a typical store, that was the largest size sold. What if you wanted your coat to be more loose-fitting so you can layer thick sweaters underneath? Too bad. You either had to lose weight (Easier said than done) or go on a wild goose chase online. Lane Bryant or Torrid were the main plus stores but they basically only sell matronly clothes and they charge extra for a more extensive use of fabric. This makes me wonder why petites clothing isn’t cheaper?
Needless to say, size 14 was the average. Av-er-age. Not maximum. Thinking back to Stats 101, this means half of American women could not even find their size in a physical store 10 years ago. They were so happy to have a section of the store with cute things that fit them.
Guess what? It’s 2021 and size 14 is no longer the average. As of December 2020, according to Today news, the average size is between 16 and 18. Physically segregating “fat people” and “skinny people”clothing into a regular and a plus department is crippling on women’s self-esteem. Say it with me: plus is regular. In 2010, there were 1 million established retailers in the USA. This number has steadily increased by about 4% since then. And in a million stores a woman who is size 16, the average, has to inconveniently buy some of her clothes in the regular section and some in plus. How inconvenient. A woman who is a size 24 may still not be able to shop in most stores. But this is only 3 sizes above average?
They have special policies too. Since plus is newer at many novelty retailers like my favorite, Anthropologie, they offer free returns on plus only. This shows the public that they aren’t even really sure how to make clothes size 18+ fit correctly! And yet, they get a gold star for having a limited selection available. Perhaps, reevaluating “sample size” is needed. Smalls and size 4 shouldn’t be the only ones retailers use fit models for. All “plus-sized” women want is what every human has wanted their entire life: to fit in.
But, if we don’t call it plus-sized what do we call it? Nothing! We call it nothing! Would petites ever be minus? No! It’s just the women’s department. Size 00-30 just sit together on the same rack. They have the same clothing options and everyone gets an equal opportunity to determine their own style.
It’s just the men’s department. Men’s Big & Tall is a conversation for another day but, I will just briefly say, as someone who worked in a store for four years with a Big & Tall department, not all men who shop in that section are Big and Tall. Plenty Small & Tall and Big & Short men out there too. Ever wonder how they shop? Why are they so grumpy in the mall? Nothing fits!
So back to plus. We have bigger and smaller sizes sitting in one store nicely packaged together and at the same price point. This raises the question as to what should the cut-off be? What should be the largest size offered? The same way 0 or 00 was figured out to be the smallest size needed. Individual companies will have to really dig into their sales figures v. the industry’s and make the decision that is best for their business.
I knew I wanted to call this article Bad Words in Fashion. Like always, I Googled this to see if it’s already been written in the same way I’d approach the topic. I was so disappointed to see the conversation wasn’t even out there. A “Bad Words in Fashion” Google led me to t-shirts with profanity. There are many other words the fashion industry has gotten away with misusing for too long. More on those to come. For now, I had too much to say about plus. It’s the biggest issue. It’s the biggest restructuring that will take the longest time. But, ultimately, it will save womankind.
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